Catching up with friends after work always calls for something a little bit special after slogging it through the nine to five, especially on a Friday night when you are both based in the buzzing metropolitan of central London. When meeting up with my pal Meral the other week, we decided to visit Lebanese restaurant Levant, based a few minutes from Bond Street tube station, to tuck in to an early dinner.
Levant has a distinct aurora of mystery; it is situated down a shadowy and half-hidden side street, making it incredibly easy to simply walk past. Just the merest red awning advertises its location. However, Levant soon converts into an Aladdin’s cave, as stepping into the restaurant’s premises soon has you treading on patterned cream and black tiles, while mottled beige-black walls catch the shadows cast from elaborate black metalwork lanterns set heavily on the floor. The lanterns emit a bright and patterned glow as it filters through the filigree metalwork, lighting up your feet, and the floor is scenically scattered with real rose petals. Meral and I descended the stairs of this elaborate entrance in awe; it really was like being transported to a completely different realm – from London’s smoggy side street to the Middle East in a blink of an eye.
The main restaurant is in the basement, spread over two staggered levels; this consists of the bar area and then the main seating area. The same wonderfully opulent décor is maintained throughout the venue, with richly coloured and patterned dining chairs and stocky wooden tables. The tables were situated rather close to each other, but we were lucky that our table was at the end of a row, so we had a little more space there, and no one sat on the table the other side of us.
Revelling in the gorgeous surrounds, which I adored, we eagerly took up our menus. I firstly ordered a glass of merlot – it was Friday after all – before taking a closer look at the food options. For my starter, I decided to try the muhammarah dip. This was a spicy red pepper dip with onion, garlic and roasted mixed nuts. It was served in a heavy-set ceramic bowl, typically larger than the average dip dish, which made me very happy. It was a grainy consistency and orange-red in colour, with a cluster of raw nuts sat in the centre, surrounded by petals of sliced red chilli. The breads were a bit like pittas, but more oblong in shape and more domed in the centre, filled with air. The bread also had a scattering of seeds on top; they reminded me of poppy and sesame seeds. The dip was wonderful and a really generous portion size. It was surprisingly creamy due to the nuts, which added a firmness and crunch, yet also a creaminess and softness that was accentuated by the warm garlic hues. The red pepper was the predominant flavour but it was well matched by the dip’s other ingredients. Everything about this dip just worked, and I very swiftly was polishing the pattern off the bowl with my enthusiastic mopping! It was probably the best dip I have ever eaten actually and although it had a gentle warmth, it wasn’t spicy or too hot at all.
We also sampled some of the baba ghannouj dip, which is smoked aubergine puree, tahini, garlic and lemon juice. This was a little sharper to my taste buds, with a fresher, lighter tone. It was nice, but I much preferred my choice. Meral ordered the sambousek jibne to start, and these were also delicious, as I found after a crafty bite! These were little pastry semi circles, cooked to be golden and flaky and filled with melted halloumi, feta cheese, mint and parsley. The herbs were a bit of a non-element here as all I could taste was the oozy, glorious cheese, so soft and liquid juxtaposed with the flaky folds of the pastry. I certainly think we both made excellent starter choices. By this point, I was also enjoying my wine; the merlot was medium bodied, smooth and incredibly fruity.
For my main course, I decided to go all out and have the mashawy, also known as the mixed grill. At £23.95, this wasn’t exactly the best option for my purse strings, but it sounded fabulous. It basically consisted of both lamb and chicken kofta kebabs, which are minced lamb or chicken mixed with spices, herbs and onions, as well as both lamb and chicken shish, which is where cubes of the respective meats are marinated in garlic, lemon and spices before being grilled. The selection of four kebabs were served on a pretty flat beaten gold plate, with a mound of white rice and a side salad.
I really enjoyed my main course. The chicken cubes in particular were so tender and juicy, the flavour was very wholesome and natural and just felt like great quality meat. The lamb was a little tougher, as is to be expected, however the flavour was again spot on and the meat, although simply prepared and cooked, was tasty. The kofta equivalents were also yummy, the herbs and spices very mild so as to add flavour but not to detract from the meat. The main difference for me was the consistency of the meat, from the minced meat used in the kofta to the chunks of meat for the shish.
Portion wise, the skewers were smaller than I was expecting, especially for how much the dish cost. I’ve had mixed grills before where each skewer was as long as two of Levant’s put together. However, it was still a decent size for a main meal and not small in any way. I think Levant deceptively put their food on smaller plates to make it look bigger. The rice was well cooked and plain, the salad also simple and with a nice dressing to give it some zing. Granted, this is a very simple dish – there is literally nothing complicated about grilled meats, boiled rice and salad. Despite this, the dish was lovely and the quality of the meat and execution of the cooking helped to give it a bit of star factor. It hit my carnivorous cravings for the evening and I had yet another clean plate.
We were also able to enjoy some entertainment with our meal, as four belly dancers descended into the dining area, clad in a skimpy array of bejewelled bikini tops and swishing skirts. They unselfconsciously sashayed around the room and between tables, pulling up interested diners to dance with them. Luckily our main course arrived just as one was approaching our table, so we avoided that rather well! The belly dancers were fun to watch and added something different to the evening, as well as accentuating the theme and vibe of the restaurant.
We did try and order dessert and coffees, but this is where the absolutely terrible service came into play. Although the waiting staff were polite, and there were plenty of them bringing food out of the kitchen, there only seemed to be one or two of them who were able to take the orders. This meant that our drinks remained empty once we drunk them with no offers of a second or a refill and trying to get anything at all was a complete mission. It’s rare to find staff so inattentive, but the guys at Levant certainly have that attribute in spades. We wanted to order a dessert to share and a coffee each, however as the waiter was taking too long, Meral’s friend who joined us began to feel too warm and unwell, so we decided to simply get the bill instead. That, in itself, was a complete and utter mission and took an age to get. The service was appalling; making it hard to order is no way to get customers to spend more money. It just made us feel completely ignored.
I was also surprised at the expense. I know I was in central London, however we hadn’t been greedy. I’d only had my dip with bread to start, my mixed grill and one glass of wine; after that went I stuck on the tap water. Despite this, I still ended up paying £40 which to this day leaves me baffled. In addition, the crafty staff had already added on a £15 tip, which was most certainly not earned or deserved. I didn’t want to leave a tip at all, however one of the others left £5.
To be honest, I have mixed feelings about Levant. I really enjoyed the food and it was of an excellent quality with a wide-ranging and exciting menu; there was definitely lots I wanted to try. The décor and styling was fabulous and the restaurant had a vague party-like vibe; it was a little noisy at times with background chatter and music, the atmosphere you’d expect on a happy Friday night. Despite these positives however, the service was awful and we were unable to order what we wanted when we wanted, which is always a concern. Secondly, the price seemed very expensive compared to the simplicity of the food. So, I’m torn. I think I would go back, as the food was delicious and I did like the vibe, however I think I’d be more aware of pricing and be sure to have it as a treat meal. I’d also suggest pre-drinks at a cheaper venue first, as you definitely won’t be getting a top up at Levant.