After spending all day cooped up at Birmingham’s National Indoor Arena watching the Yonex All England Badminton Championships, my husband Dan and I were pretty cream crackered. I mean, watching all the athletes running around was more tiring than we expected, so rather than head back to the hotel to change and then find somewhere for dinner, we decided to frequent a classic gastro pub on the way back to our room instead, for an artery-clogging meal that would have us licking our lips and our tummies sighing with satisfaction.
With this in mind, Dan found The Brasshouse on Broad Street, near Brindleyplace and next to the canal. It struck the right balance between offering a veneer of red-brick sophistication and old-fashioned charm as well as providing a more casual atmosphere than a formal restaurant. We were also lucky that since it was still quite early in the evening, that it was relatively quiet too, so we could find a dining table with ease that was opposite the bar for speedy ordering purposes.
I actually really liked the interior of The Brasshouse. With smart tartan carpet, cream walls and deep duck egg blue wood panelling, and plenty of red brick for that rustic vibe, the pub had an aura of a manor house about it, which appeals to my whimsical nature. With an array of booths, dining tables and high stool tables, we picked a normal dining table for four and spread ourselves out. I admired the intricate wallpaper in this section of the pub too; it depicted white columned arches that stood out against deep grey alcoves, a selection of brass-coloured monkeys strutting, climbing and causing mischief at random, well-spaced intervals of the classic Roman building work. On top of this fascinating wallpaper were heavy, thick and densely patterned golden frames, which were either mirrors or showed black and white stills of streets, mounted on deep red apertures.
Once we had settled down, I viewed the drinks menu with growing interest. They had a vast gin selection and I was eager to try out a couple of different flavours. I started with Tanqueray No. 10, as I am a Tanqueray fan anyway, and I enjoyed the fresh, citrus tones of this gin. I also sampled Monkey 47, which had telling notes of cranberry. It was great to try some unique gins that you don’t always find on pub menus and I loved that the menu had tasting notes too, which helped me pick what ones I wanted to order. I had my gins with slimline tonic for a refreshing beverage to accompany my meal. Needless to say, I made my way through quite a few…
For starters, we decided to pick a few dishes from the tapas menu and share. Very sociable for date night indeed. My choice was the mozzarella and truffle bon bons, which sounded like they pretty much encompassed all of my favourite flavours in one decadently deep-fried bundle. Truffle-toned and breadcrumb-coated, these balls hid an oozing centre of soft, stringy and addictive melted mozzarella, which was such a texture contrast to the crispy fried breadcrumbs. Super soft yet with a golden exterior, these globules of goodness were served with a tomato salsa that added just the right amount of pick-me-up to avoid too much heaviness, the tomato quite juicy and zingy. Dan’s pick was the chicken wings, which were also fried to a golden perfection, the chicken meat itself slick and tender. Our mutual plate pick was the antipasti, as we do love an antipasti. This one featured a selection of Italian cured meats, mixed olives, slow roasted tomato, focaccio bread and Dolcelatte blue cheese. I loved the range of salamis, which covered different textures and tastes, and in particular I enjoyed wrapping bits of salami around the flavourful and rich tomatoes. In my opinion, tomatoes taste so much better when they are sundried, roasted or sunblushed so this left me happy. I chowed down on the salty olives too as a nice snack and I even tried the blue cheese, despite strongly disliking blue cheese. This one was creamy and soft, almost spreadable, so could be termed bearable, but it was still not a winner for either of us. All in all though, we loved our little pick and mix starter and it certainly set the ball rolling for a very enjoyable meal.
For my main course, I stuck to my cheese-laden guns and opted for the loaded mac and cheese. Naturally, this wasn’t your run-of-the-mill mac and cheese, but instead it featured slow cooked BBQ burnt beef ends, BBQ pulled pork and streaky bacon all sat atop my mound of cheesy pasta, with a slice of garlic focaccia on the side. The mac and cheese was served in a white baking dish rimmed with blue, and looked as if it had come straight from the oven, the top almost set and with a delightful collection of golden burst cheese bubbles brewing on top. Each of the featured meats sat on top in a neat pile, so it wasn’t really mixed in to the mac and cheese; it was probably the standard pre-prepared mac and cheese that just had meat whacked on top. However, this meat was really good. Each component was literally screaming with flavour and the BBQ tones really came through. The burnt beef ends had a satisfying crunch to them, while the pulled pork was shredded beautifully and gooey too. The bacon was a nice thickness with a salty undertone, and a few sprigs of greenery finished off the look. The mac and cheese itself was decadently cheesy and a wonderful yellow colour. It was wonderfully oozy, the small pasta pieces were well cooked and it felt like indulgent home cooking that we simply don’t usually have time for. A very yummy mac and cheese indeed that really hit my spot. I was disappointed with the garlic focaccia however. It was actually a small strip of what I would term ciabatta rather than focaccia with barely a garlic tinge in it. It was nice to have some bread to dunk in all that cheesy and saucy goodness, however a crisp plain ciabatta is very different from a soft, doughy, garlic flavoured focaccia. #justsaying. Dan went for his pub go-to; fish and chips served with mushy peas on brown paper. A sample bite told me the fish was delicious and well cooked so that it flaked apart nicely, and the batter was light and not oily. We were both happy with the main courses.
I decided to have a traditional dessert for my afters, so I ordered the apple crumble with lashings of bright yellow custard. The apple was soft and suprisingly full of flavour. It luckily also retained its chunkiness with regards to the fruit and it wasn’t just a colourless mush of stewed apple. However, for me, the star of the dish was actually the crumble topping, which not only was the right consistency of crumb to add bite and crunch yet avoid being dust, but it also had a great taste. It was flavoured with cinnamon, and I think had an oaty, caramel tone to it too. It was really lovely. I was also grateful for the generous custard pool. The colour suggested packet mix, yet it was nice so I don’t really mind. The apple crumble was a satisfying and hearty dessert.
Dan, on the other hand, went upmarket with mini churros served with a caramel dip. However, these were a bit odd to be honest. They were pretty hollow inside instead of having churros’ usual doughnut fluffiness and were filled with the same caramel sauce that was provided for dunking. This made the churros more like shells, which were a touch too crunchy and thin to be proper churros. Plus, Dan found them really difficult to eat as the sauce inside was absolutely piping hot and we both burnt our tongues trying to eat them. Breaking them open though just spilled the inner sauce and took away the fun of dunking in the dip, which as we all know is the main point of churros. A nice idea but we’re not sure this one really carried off that well. The flavours were nice though.
All in all, we enjoyed our evening in The Brasshouse. It was all about the proper pub grub, although it certainly gave an upmarket makeover to certain aspects of its menu; namely the tapas starters and the luxury drinks menu. Clearly, artisan drinks menus are becoming the norm as more diners expect to adventure as far with their gin as they do with their dinner. Prices were pretty standard for pub food and I really liked the atmosphere and the decor. I’d definitely pop back in for either drink or food or both and there was enough choice on the menu for me to pick a different meal on another visit. Just don’t expect healthy eating!